"Dear Old Skibbereen"

During our pre-trip planning, today we intended to drive the Ring of Kerry peninsula, leaving Killarney first thing in the morning and then circumnavigating the Kerry Peninsula counterclockwise before heading south to Skibbereen. It would be almost five hours in the car without stopping. After speaking to the nice lady in the pub last night and listening to others we decided to alter the plan. The Ring of Kerry is very beautiful we were told, but a little touristy and crowded with buses. Janet consulted her notes and a new plan was developed before we went to sleep last night.

We were on the road by 8:30 and headed to the Muckross House, which is only about twenty minutes south of Killarney. The estate is not as large as the Biltmore in Ashville; however, it is just as grand, if not more inside. Built by Henry Arthur Herbert, who served in Parliament as well as being the Chief Secretary for Ireland in the mid-1800s, the home stands in homage to a time when Queen Victoria sat on the throne of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland.

The view from the lawn was just beautiful! It brought us to a complete stop just to absorb all that was around us. The cool air, warm sunshine, clean outdoor scent, and the birds singing created a memorable moment on the lawn.

We arrived at the entrance of the mansion as the doors were being opened for the day. The lady who sold us the tickets provided us with this caveat, “Today the staff will be evaluating the fire alarm system so please do not be startled.” A beautiful chandelier and grand staircase greeted us as we entered the house.

 

Our self-guided tour had just begun, when a loud shrill filled the house. We were expecting that, but what startled us was all the doors began slamming shut. It was just a tad bit disconcerting, and the noise was deafening. Although it seemed the blast would never stop, when it did the doors reopened and silence filled the mansion - thank God!

The dining table was set and ready to receive guests. The entire room was extremely formal, but welcoming. Tom was ready to pull up a chair and see what would arrive from the kitchen, however, he reconsidered when he realized that the alarm may go off again.

The workmanship and detail in this house was something to behold. The detail in the crown molding is some of the most elegant we have ever seen on our travels. The plaster carvings were so ornate and detailed.

The Herbert Family was honored with a visit to Muckross by Queen Victoria, Albert, the Prince Consort, and four of their children in 1861. One of the children, Albert Edward, would become King Edward VII, Queen Elizabeth’s grandfather. Queen Victoria had a lovely room which was remodeled before her arrival. Definitely, a nicer bedroom than your average Airbnb, and oh what a view!

Each room offered a glimpse into the past and how the better half lived. It also allowed us to see where and how the staff supported the Lord and Lady of the house. Truly right out of Downton Abbey.

When we finished with the house tour, we went outside to enjoy the gardens. Our little buddy was on the lawn ready to show us around. As you would guess, the gardens were beautiful. They were not over the top, but well-manicured and highlighted the house. The colors of the flowers, the blues of the sky and lake, and the trimmed lawn made our visit a memorable one. There was a large gnarly tree in the backyard that I am sure remembered when Queen Victoria’s visited. Oh yeah, Tom saw the lawnmower he NEEDS!

Staying on the backroads we continued our journey south towards the town of Kenmare. The road weaved in and out of the forest and through rock formations. We had no idea what would be around the next corner, but we knew we would not be disappointed.

Twisting higher and higher, we saw signs that said we would be reaching “Ladies’ View” in just a few kilometers. This overlook was named by Queen Victoria's ladies-in-waiting on their journey to Muckross House in 1861. The sun shone brightly, and the panoramic view did not disappoint.

We lingered at the pull-off enjoying the sun and the view before continuing our journey. Of course, obeying all traffic signs!

And watching out for all pedestrians, whether they had two or four legs.

   

Arriving in the town of Kenmare, our stomachs told us it was time to eat! It was a sleepy Monday in Kenmare and there was little activity on the streets.

This part of County Kerry is famous for cheese and our hope was to do a cheese tasting, but it was Monday, and all the shops were closed. We pulled up at O'Donnabhain's Bar & Restaurant and boy did we choose wisely once again! The food was spot on and satisfied our growling stomachs.

Back to the car, we told ourselves that Kenmare deserves another visit. Besides being a beautiful town, it is also rich in Irish Rebellion history.

Following the advice we received last night, we decided not to drive the Ring of Kerry because of the amount of time and tourists we would encounter on the journey. The band’s aunt told us the Beara Peninsula is just as scenic and would have far fewer, if any, tourist buses. So, we set our course south on R571 towards the Beara Peninsula.

 

Her advice was to travel about halfway down the peninsula and then cut across to the town of Adrigole via the Healy Pass on R574. The ride once again offered some impressive panoramic views. When we reached the intersection to turn left onto R574, we both looked at each other as to say, here goes nothing! The road was well maintained and fairly wide, but as we climbed into the clouds that changed quickly.

Reaching the pinnacle of the crossing we were treated to a magnificent view of the valley below.

 

The drive to this point had been pretty intense, but looking at the GPS what lay ahead was not going to be for those with weak hearts. Tom decided to pull off and take a moment to stretch, breathe, but mostly dry his hands for the descent. He does not mind driving up, but he does not like driving down at all. And no matter if the GPS said 80 kmh (50 mph) was a safe speed, there was no way in hell that velocity would be achieved. We were on the home stretch to Adrigole.

Coming around the final turn, the road widens to fit two cars, the fields turned green, and we could see Bantry Bay.

A feeling that we had just completed an Amazing Race roadblock, we smiled and congratulated ourselves. Reaching the bay, we turned left and were on our final leg to Skibbereen. We would pass through Bantry and Balleydehob. Driving into Balleydehob, Tom immediately became quiet just absorbing everything he saw. It was in 1883 that his great-grandfather John Joseph Sullivan left this area to emigrate to the United States.

We did not know exactly where he lived, but that was one of the goals of our trip to find out more about his family’s origins.

It was late in the afternoon when we arrived in Skibbereen. We checked into the West Cork Hotel, which is located on the River Ilen by the old railroad bridge. From the outside the hotel looked a little tired, but inside we found that much of its 1900 craftsmanship and grandeur was still in tack.

The city is steeped in Irish history and the birthplace of the "Phoenix Society", which would later become the Irish Republican Brotherhood. Skibbereen is the location of a famous Irish folk song, "Dear Old Skibbereen". The song tells the story of a father trying to explain to his son why he left Ireland (Skibbereen) to live in another country during what history documents the period as the Irish Famine. Today, you will hear many refer to the period as the Irish Genocide.

It is also the home of the Skibbereen Heritage Centre. Tom had scheduled time with a genealogist at the center to help begin to unravel some of the family mysteries of the past. The Heritage Centre was right across from the hotel.

We walked the streets to get a feel for the town, but after Galway and Killarney, Skibbereen, like our hotel looked a little tired. Here again, it was Monday and everything was closed. We did find a new pizza place and had a wonderful dinner. This was the first piece of pizza Tom had eaten since November, so it was easy to call the pizza the best he had had in the last 6 months. Retiring early, we were excited to begin our adventure into the past.

Good Night "Dear Old Skibbereen"

BTW - Upon our return Tom checked the price of the lawn tractor - $55K plus!  Saint Happening!