Up early and out the door, we started today’s adventure. Our destination today was Killarney, which is approximately a three-hour drive. Offline google maps has been a very reliable navigator for us so far. The day’s destinations were plugged in while we had Wi-Fi connectivity, and then we were good to go for the day. When we checked out, the receptionist gave us the code to the parking lot gate and told us to let the attendant know we were hotel guests for a discount on our parking fee. We loaded the car and then reality set in; there would be no attendant for another forty-five minutes. As on all trips, the decision between time or money came into play. We always choose time, so we paid the full fee and out the gate we went.
Looking at Galway in our rearview mirror was sad, but looking ahead, we knew there was a lot more of Ireland to see!
Our first stop would be Ennis, the largest town in County Clare. Ennis would be an important stop because we had left Galway with no breakfast or coffee. No detours or side trips would be allowed until a cup of coffee had been consumed. The Ennis city parking lot had lots of open spots, so we parked and locked the car and headed directly to a breakfast restaurant, which was a block from the Franciscan Abbey.
Following the directions of the mural, we continued exploring the streets of Ennis. We made a wide circle before crossing a bridge over the River Fergus which dropped us back at the parking lot.
Driving today was easy! An uncrowded four lane highway allowed us to arrive at Bunratty Castle very quickly. The castle site dates all the way back to the 900s when the Vikings held the land as a trading camp. By the early 1400s the MacNamara family, who controlled a vast area in the region, built the castle as we know it today. In 1475, its ownership transferred to the O’Briens, where it became their stronghold. It is thought that the castle was a gift to the O’Briens as part of a marriage between clans. Not only was the castle fun to explore, but there is a large folk park which allows you to experience rural life in Ireland from days gone by.
Touring the castle, we both decided that we were very lucky to have been born in the 20th century! Bunratty Castle was the home to the most powerful family in the region, and it still seemed pretty tough living to us. However, we will let you decide in the pictures below.
Meandering through the folk park we were able to experience the way of life from a rural farmer in the 1800s to village life in Ireland in the 1900s. We saw small stone huts for the poor and wooden houses of the merchant class. Entering these buildings, we were immediately transported back in time. The one encounter which neither of us had ever seen was a white peacock! The bird’s feathers were in full display and her eyes were ever watchful as we approached. She was a magnificent beauty!
The sound of a fiddle drew us back to the entrance where we had started. What a great stop, but it was now time to continue the journey to Killarney.
Although it was lunchtime, we decided to press on to the hotel. Killarney was only 60 miles away and having a late breakfast we got back on the highway and headed south. Once again being on the highway we made great time until… we reached the outskirts of Killarney. Everything came to a dead stop, and we were less than 2 miles from our hotel. It seemed every horse in Ireland was dragging a traditional Jaunting Car from downtown to the National Park. After 40 minutes of slowly making progress, we arrived at our hotel downtown. Saturday afternoon in Killarney was a happening place.
Checking into the International Hotel, we once again experienced a time warp. The building was built in the 1840s and served as a hospital for famine victims to being the home of the Killarney Electric Light Company. Believe it or not, Killarney had electric streetlights before London! In 1906, it became the hotel it is today and still has the aura of the Gilded Age. Dropping our bags we headed out into the city for lunch, which was now long overdue.
We had now been in Ireland for 4 days and yet to have Fish & Chips. Tatler Jack Pub seemed like the right place to have lunch. They had Fish & Chips, Guinness on tap, and Rugby on the TV – Life is Good!
The Fish & Chips were excellent, but really what set this meal over the top was what the side dish was… “Mushy Peas”. They were so good that we questioned our waiter how they were made. She did not know so she headed to the kitchen to consult the cook. Returning with a smile on her face and a big bowl of mushy peas for us, she said that the cook just heats them up out of the can. Tom had to GTS (Google That Sh#t) the recipe. They are exactly what the name states. The are nothing more than frozen green peas, some heavy cream, salt & pepper and then mush them up. Not sure you can buy them in the states, but we know the recipe is well within our culinary capabilities. The rugby game ended, and the fans headed out the door. We were stuffed and ready to walk, so we joined in and headed out to the streets.
The Aran Sweater store was beckoning us in with the window display. These stores are all over Ireland, but the one in Killarney was larger than the others we experienced in Galway. And even better, they had a discount section on the second floor. We definitely took advantage of a few of the deals offered.
The Aran Islands have been famous for their woolen products, especially sweaters. In days gone by patterns of these sweaters have represented different family names. A specific sweater stitch was created as the family pattern. Many family names have been added to the original Aran Islands collection of patterns. Today, there are now over 500 different patterns. It was cool to see all the family names on a scarf or sweater. There were a couple items that caught Tom’s attention. Sitting side by side were Tom’s maternal great grandparents’ family names.
Playing our Catholic card, we decided to take advantage of Saturday night Mass. This would allow us to go exploring first thing on Sunday morning giving us a full day in the Irish countryside. St Mary’s Cathedral was about a mile walk from downtown, but it was a lovely evening for a walk.
Arriving early, we were able to take end the enormity of this edifice both inside and out. The Mass featured many of the school children participating in the service as the Easter season was just two weeks away.
Stopping at a pub just a few doors down from Flesk, the sounds of traditional music could be heard. The place was packed so we joined about 25 other people standing in the street watching and listening through the window.
The band was great, but when the lead singer announced there was a group from Minnesota that wanted to dance to Polka music, we shook our heads in disbelief. The band kicked off immediately in a Bohemia Oompah tune. Tables and chairs were moved and the group started dancing. Within the first thirty seconds we decided that it was our cue to head back to the hotel. To watch a Bavarian night of dance in Ireland was not on our list things to experience. As we strolled back to our Edwardian Era hotel, we reflected on all the great things we had done and seen today. Tomorrow promises to be even better with a trip to the Dingle Peninsula.
Good Night Killarney!
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