The Road to Galway

Up early and feeling rested and ready to go, we ate a big breakfast at the hotel before catching a cab back to the airport. The airport was very quiet at 8 o’clock in the morning and there was no line at the Europcar desk. The car rental was extremely reasonable, but we opted for the full insurance option which brought the price up to $75 a day. The only guidance the Europcar agent had for us was “to keep the car between the ditches.” She also told us that the vehicle had satellite tracking so if we had an issue on one of the many backroads, they could find us.

Embolden with this information we headed out. Our first stop was a little over an hour away. Heading northwest we drove to the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare. We had planned to try to avoid the major highways so we could see the farms and villages of Ireland. Almost immediately the shoulders of the roads disappeared, and the hedges whizzed by Janet’s window within inches. Viewing the world from the opposite side of the vehicle and the closeness of brick walls, hedges, houses, and trees were very disconcerting for Janet.

Arriving safely at the Cliffs of Moher, we found the temperature was greatly reduced from Shannon with overcast skies and very strong winds coming from the sea. We were excited to only see one tourist bus in the parking lot. Stepping out of the car, we quickly put on our coats, hats, and gloves! Damn it was cold! 

A portion of the cliff’s hiking trail was closed for repair, but we were determined to walk as far as we could before reaching a signed gate. Grazing sheep in the fields bordering the path, watched us as our head swiveled to discover a different sight. There is no doubt if you have an opportunity to walk the cliffs of Moher, there will be plenty of photos snapped. Whether it's the breathtaking views, the waves slamming against the rocks, or the sheep going about their business, one will try to capture the moment. Both of us took tons of photos, but in reviewing the pictures there is not one that captured the beauty we experienced.

Reaching the end of the trail, we turned and retraced our steps back to our starting point. Although we had walked this same route, the views seemed different. There was just so much to take in.

We began heading back to our car but decided to stop at the museum and look at the exhibits. However, the ulterior motive was to warm up. The temperature was now in the mid-forties but one could not escape the wind. The parking lot was now filled with buses. We were so happy that we got up and arrived at the cliffs before the masses.  

Our next destination, Doolin, was only a few miles down Wild Atlantic Way. A very appropriate name for this road as it winds along the Atlantic Ocean. This small village is known for its colorful buildings and music at night. Unfortunately, we would not be there at night to enjoy the traditional Irish tunes, but the weather broke allowing the colors to become vibrant. Doolin is also where one can catch the ferry to the Aran Islands where there are many ancient sites to be explored. We did not have time to make that journey, and looking at the sea-state we were very happy a ferry ride was not on the plan-of-the-day.

We wandered in and out of a few of the shops looking at souvenirs and sweaters. Janet even got one of the later items in a beautiful deep green. It was a little early for lunch, but we wanted to eat ahead of the buses from the Cliffs of Moher descended on the village. Sean and Patrick at the pub last night had recommended where to eat and that is where we headed, O’Connor's Pub.

As our friend Julie used to say, "We have chosen wisely” for it was moments after we placed our order that a bus rolled into town. Followed by a second bus not long afterwards. We both decided on the classic Irish lunch of seafood chowder and brown bread. Of course, a pint to accompany the meal. The bowl of creamy treasures from the sea with potatoes hit the spot! The chill of the morning vanished with the first bite. The brown bread just added to our gastronomic experience by absorbing the richness of the soup and adding a hint of terra firma. As more and more people poured into the pub it was time for us to make our exit and continue north on the Wild Atlantic Way towards Galway.

Next stop would be Ballyvaughan, a small village located on the sea. To get there we would have to cross a large hill known as Corkscrew Hill. No pictures of the ride, because Tom was holding on to the wheel and Janet had her eyes closed. Arriving in Ballyvaughan, we drove to the city quay. Once a very active port in the 1800s, Ballyvaughan is now known as a sailing mecca for Ireland.

We walked down the street that paralleled the sea stretching our legs. The skies had returned to grey, but the wind was nonexistent, and it felt so good to be out in the fresh air. The street had some really cute buildings from days gone by and what appeared to be a watering hole from Ireland’s first municipal water system. As we walked, further a bright yellow sign caught our attention.

The seaside hotel was no longer taking guests because it has become a refuge for those who fled Putin’s invasion. The Irish government and we assumed the EU must be paying the lodging cost for the care and feeding of exiled citizens of Ukraine.

Leaving Ballyvaughan, we continued North on the Wild Atlantic Way towards Galway.

Janet, the ultimate trip planner, consulted her notes and found one more location that needed to be explored along the way. Turning off the main road we travelled down a farm road for 20 minutes. Lush green fields lined with stone fences were on both sides of the road.

Arriving at Corcomroe Abbey, we were awe struck by the remaining ruins that had survived for over 800 years.

The abbey was surrounded by a graveyard which included ancient as well as modern graves. The grounds around each stone were neatly manicured and many carried messages to all those who would pause for a moment to reflect. One of the engravings that caused us to take notice was Vincent Healy’s messages, in which there were two. “DEEDS, NOT WORDS” and “THE GREATEST SIN IS TO THINK THAT LIFE IS NOT GOOD”. Both short statements said volumes of the man who was laid to rest. We walked around the inside of the ruins and discovered more graves that were part of the floor of the abbey. 

We were by ourselves when we took this self-guided tour back in time and that too made this detour even more special. The day was slipping by, and it was now time to head to Galway with no more stops along the way. Our first day of driving had gone well. We were able to stay out of the ditches, and Janet was feeling slightly more comfortable on the left side of the car.

We arrived in Galway and put the car in a public parking garage that was located maybe 50 yards from our hotel. Our accommodation for the next couple of days would be at the Residence Hotel. A small boutique hotel at the entrance of what is called the Latin Quarter. The streets of this area are lined with pubs, restaurants, and small shops. In fact, are hotel sits above a pub named “M. Fitzgerald’s”!

The rain was coming down harder now, however we needed to get outside. Tom will not sit in a hotel room very long. It was miserable walking up the street in this weather. Ahhh... what to do? Janet’s notes once again came in handy. The King’s Head Public House is a very historic building and has a great backstory. Plus, it is dry and serves Irish Coffee and Guinness! So we headed to the bar of this building that dates to the 13 century and that has been a tavern since 1649 when the executioner of King Charles I was given the building by Cromwell as a blood money payment.

We headed back towards the hotel when we discovered a possible dinner option, Trattoria Magnetti. Yep, an Italian restaurant for our Irish dinner. The big bonus was it was next door to our hotel. We were pleasantly surprised at the quality of the meal. Tom ordered a dish he loves, Frutti Di Mare and it was the best he had since his time in Italy. And pistachio cheesecake to finish the meal… oh yeah – Life is Good!

We could hear the music next door at Fitzgerald’s, so we headed to the pub. Stuffed from dinner we just sat and enjoyed the music. Just a wonderful first day of exploration. The food, the sights, and now the music made this a day to remember.

Click on the picture and end our first day with us by listening to some traditional Irish music.

Good night – See you tomorrow!