We set out for Dingle using the secondary roads to avoid tourist buses and to have a more peaceful ride. It was not long after we left town and got on R561, which paralleled the water, when little rice burner cars were approaching us from behind. They were pushing us down the road and passing us on curves! It was crazy and our relaxing drive was anything but! We were happy to pull off the road at the scenic overlook that sits above Inch Beach. The morning sun was cutting through the fog and mist in the distance. It was just beautiful.
The whining vehicles kept whizzing by, but reluctantly we got back out on the road. We had not gone a ½ mile when there was a roadblock and a gentleman approached our car. Today was the Dingle Road Rally and this portion of the road was closed, he explained. Seeing our frustration he quickly got us turned around and pointed to a side road that headed up a hill. The road will take you over to the main road and into Dingle he said and sent us on our way. It was a small road, but we would find out quickly how small it was!
The road twisted and turned by farms, steep drop offs, and out of control hedges. However, it did give us some very impressive views when there was a break in the undergrowth. It was so surreal that the warm morning sun was beating on the car, but in the distance a mist could be seen in the valleys below.
After 30 minutes of driving on our unplanned detour, we were back on a main road headed towards Dingle.
The mist was thickening to a fog as we drove through Dingle headed to the tip of the peninsula.
We were the first visitors of the day, which allowed us to chat at length with one of the owners. She told us how beautiful the weather was last weekend, and it looked like the fog was here to stay for the day. After we watched the movie and paid a small fee we headed off into the fog to the ruins.
The earliest stones of the fort date back to the Iron Age, but most of the structure was built around 950 AD. Each stone was carefully stacked on one another until the multi-layered fort provided the inhabitants protection from all interlopers who might attack from the sea. We were told on the horizon one could see the Blasket Islands and on clear days the Skellig Islands in the distance. However, today we were lucky to see the edge of the cliff and the angry water below. The lack of view only heightened our awareness on how isolated one must have felt 1500 years ago while nestled between the rocks.
As we were getting ready to leave the Stonehouse others were beginning to arrive, but there was still no sign of tourist buses. We both broke into a smile when this gentleman broke through the fog riding a 4-Wheeler with his dog in the basket. It was as if the dog was his headlights leading him through the inclement conditions of the day. We wondered if the man pulled on his tail, he would be his horn and bark at impending danger.
Not far down the road we stopped at a curious group of rock houses. They are known as Clocháns, or in English, Beehive Huts. These small homes are built with no mortar to bind the rocks. Simply, it was one rock carefully stacked on another until all the walls intersected in a cone shaped pinnacle. Some of the roofs had collapsed, but it is amazing the structures are still standing 1700 years after their construction. Who built the huts is unknown, but they can be found across County Kerry, so it is thought that monks built them as primitive monasteries. They must have been short people because one must really bend over to go inside the beehive.
We continued our journey along the sea headed towards Slea Head. It did not take long before we reached the Slea Head Crucifix. This landmark is the approximate halfway point of the Dingle Peninsula. We stopped for photos and to smell the sea. Just a few 100 yards up the road was a nice pull off that allowed us to stretch and just enjoy our surroundings. Another magical place had been encountered.
The road was still void of traffic. For the most part, we had it all to ourselves with a car passing every now and then, but no buses, and thank goodness, none of those irritating rally cars. We rode quietly just enjoying the countryside.
The whining vehicles kept whizzing by, but reluctantly we got back out on the road. We had not gone a ½ mile when there was a roadblock and a gentleman approached our car. Today was the Dingle Road Rally and this portion of the road was closed, he explained. Seeing our frustration he quickly got us turned around and pointed to a side road that headed up a hill. The road will take you over to the main road and into Dingle he said and sent us on our way. It was a small road, but we would find out quickly how small it was!
The road twisted and turned by farms, steep drop offs, and out of control hedges. However, it did give us some very impressive views when there was a break in the undergrowth. It was so surreal that the warm morning sun was beating on the car, but in the distance a mist could be seen in the valleys below.
After 30 minutes of driving on our unplanned detour, we were back on a main road headed towards Dingle.
Heading down Slea Head Drive in and out of the fog, we caught quick glimpses of sea on our left and farm on our right. These farm animals had the right idea for a foggy Sunday morning. Our first stop was the Stonehouse which is a roadside restaurant and souvenir shop. This unique building, which is made totally of stone, has a backroom with a great audiovisual presentation of Dún Beag (Dunbeg Fort), and most importantly… restrooms.
We were the first visitors of the day, which allowed us to chat at length with one of the owners. She told us how beautiful the weather was last weekend, and it looked like the fog was here to stay for the day. After we watched the movie and paid a small fee we headed off into the fog to the ruins.
The earliest stones of the fort date back to the Iron Age, but most of the structure was built around 950 AD. Each stone was carefully stacked on one another until the multi-layered fort provided the inhabitants protection from all interlopers who might attack from the sea. We were told on the horizon one could see the Blasket Islands and on clear days the Skellig Islands in the distance. However, today we were lucky to see the edge of the cliff and the angry water below. The lack of view only heightened our awareness on how isolated one must have felt 1500 years ago while nestled between the rocks.
As we were getting ready to leave the Stonehouse others were beginning to arrive, but there was still no sign of tourist buses. We both broke into a smile when this gentleman broke through the fog riding a 4-Wheeler with his dog in the basket. It was as if the dog was his headlights leading him through the inclement conditions of the day. We wondered if the man pulled on his tail, he would be his horn and bark at impending danger.
Not far down the road we stopped at a curious group of rock houses. They are known as Clocháns, or in English, Beehive Huts. These small homes are built with no mortar to bind the rocks. Simply, it was one rock carefully stacked on another until all the walls intersected in a cone shaped pinnacle. Some of the roofs had collapsed, but it is amazing the structures are still standing 1700 years after their construction. Who built the huts is unknown, but they can be found across County Kerry, so it is thought that monks built them as primitive monasteries. They must have been short people because one must really bend over to go inside the beehive.
We continued our journey along the sea headed towards Slea Head. It did not take long before we reached the Slea Head Crucifix. This landmark is the approximate halfway point of the Dingle Peninsula. We stopped for photos and to smell the sea. Just a few 100 yards up the road was a nice pull off that allowed us to stretch and just enjoy our surroundings. Another magical place had been encountered.
The noon hour was approaching so we decided to start our journey back to Dingle for lunch. The northern side of the peninsula is not as austere as the side we had just traveled on, but all the same, beautiful. There were some rocks that caught Janet’s attention, and we stopped so she could have an “Outlander” moment. Tom was hoping it would not be successful, but one never knows when you are in the land of fairies, leprechauns, and legends. No joy on time travel for Janet. She decided larger jewels must be required to breakthrough space-time continuum. Honestly, we were not sure there was any better place or time to be at this moment but by the sea.
We did have to share the road with a flock of sheep and a very irritated shepherd that we stopped to photograph the animals on their Sunday stroll. The dog was also unhappy as it immediately sprung into action to keep the group together. It appeared to us that the sheep were tired and wanted a ride in the car.
Not long after our ewe encounter, we were once again blocked by the road rally and forced to detour. After taking another route back to Dingle that added 40 kilometers to our trip, we arrived later than planned and very hungry. We scoped out all of the choices of restaurants and menus along the main drag but could not decide on which place to eat.
Back in Killarney, we window shopped up and down the streets. While listening to music, the city was much quieter than the night before. We stopped by the same pub as last night, but this time there were a few chairs available. We listened to a group which was composed of a brother, sister, and their best friend. Another enjoyable music experience! We were lucky enough to sit next to the aunt of one of the band members who was very helpful in planning our next day’s adventure as well as giving us the back story on the band.
It was Tom’s turn to pick the restaurant. He asked two ladies standing outside a pub down the street, where would be the best place to get a traditional Sunday dinner? Both chimed in immediately, Caragh Restaurant! We had passed the restaurant yesterday on the way to church, so off we went. Yes indeedy, this was an Irish Sunday meal. Lamb Shank, potatoes three ways, cooked carrots, and brown bread. No pictures were taken in fear that Tom’s doctor might see what he ate. Nothing fancy – just good!
Tomorrow the journey continues as we venture to County Cork – Good Night.
The photos are amazing and the accompanying commentary shares the experience so well. Incredible journey! Well done, navigator!
ReplyDeleteThanks Margie... Blog still a work in progress - stay tune for more updates
ReplyDelete